A Circular Walk with a Deeper Connection to Dartmoor
Dartmoor National Park is not just a vast expanse of moorland; it’s a living, breathing landscape shaped by time, history, and the remarkable creatures that call it home. One of my favourite walks—one that continually draws me back—is the circular route from Postbridge to Bellever Tor. While the panoramic views from the summit are stunning, it’s the land itself, sculpted by centuries of natural and human history, that tells the real story.
At the heart of this story are the Dartmoor ponies, more than just an iconic presence on the moors. They are an endangered native breed, with only 300-500 left in the wild. Their role in shaping and sustaining this habitat is vital, and it was watching these ponies at work on Bellever’s heathland that became the inspiration for my Wild Dartmoor coffee table book—a celebration of the raw, untamed beauty of the moor and its equine guardians.
Starting the Walk: Postbridge to Bellever
This circular route begins at the Forestry England car park, opposite the main Postbridge car park, just a stone’s throw from the Dartmoor National Park Visitor Centre. Passing through the small gate to the right of the large metal gate, the wide track leads into Bellever Forest. Instead of heading directly up, I like to take a detour to Kraps Ring, an ancient Bronze Age settlement. Taking the right-hand path and then a left through the trees, the trail soon opens onto a grassy expanse—one of those hidden spots where time seems to stand still.
From here, the walk gently ascends, winding through the peaceful Lahehead Hill area, before reaching Bellever Tor. On the way, history reveals itself in the form of ancient hut circles and stone rows, a reminder of those who lived and farmed on Dartmoor thousands of years ago.
At the summit, Bellever Tor rewards you with expansive views stretching across the moor, a patchwork of rolling hills, rugged granite, and open sky. It’s easy to lose yourself in the beauty of the landscape, but it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate that this scene—so wild, so untouched—is actually being actively preserved. And the custodians of this land? The Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust (DPHT) herd.
How the Ponies Protect the Land
The ponies of Bellever Tor are not just a charming sight for walkers; they are an essential part of Dartmoor’s ecological balance. Without them, this landscape would look very different. The DPHT manages a herd within a 425-hectare conservation area, where they play a key role in preserving the fragile moorland ecosystem.
One of their most important tasks is controlling the spread of Molinia caerulea—the invasive purple moor grass that, left unchecked, smothers native plants like Calluna vulgaris (common heather). This dominance of Molinia has been a major factor in the decline of Dartmoor’s internationally important heathlands since the 1950s. The problem has been worsened by increased rainfall and nitrogen deposition, allowing the grass to outcompete heather seedlings. Once Molinia takes hold, it forms dense mats, preventing the growth of other native plants and reducing biodiversity.
The Dartmoor ponies combat this in a way that no other grazing animals quite manage. Unlike sheep and cattle, which tend to overgraze heather, ponies prefer Molinia, effectively clearing areas for the regeneration of heather and other native species. Their grazing creates a varied structure in the vegetation, increasing biodiversity by providing different habitats for insects, birds, and small mammals.
Their hoofprints even play a role—breaking up the ground and creating micro-habitats where moisture collects, encouraging amphibians to return. More amphibians mean more raptors, bringing balance to the ecosystem. It’s a remarkable, natural cycle, and the results at Bellever speak for themselves:
A 31-fold increase in common heather seedlings
A 9% reduction in Molinia grass cover
A significant return of red and amber-listed bird species
A boost in reptile and amphibian populations
Beyond their role in conservation, the ponies also help mitigate the risk of wildfires. By keeping the vegetation in check and reducing sward surface height, they lower the chances of uncontrolled fires sweeping across the moors.
A Personal Connection to Dartmoor’s Ponies
It was here at Bellever, observing the DPHT ponies grazing among the heather and ancient stones, that the seed of an idea for Wild Dartmoor took root. Seeing these ponies in their natural habitat—untamed, essential, a living link to Dartmoor’s past—was a reminder that their story is one worth telling. My new photo book is not just about landscapes; it’s about the relationship between land, history, and the creatures that belong to it.
I have spent years photographing wild and semi-wild equines across the world, but there is something profoundly special about the Dartmoor pony. They are not just an emblem of the moor; they are its caretakers, ensuring that future generations will walk these trails and see Bellever as I see it today.
The Descent: A Journey Back Through Time
After taking in the views, the route loops back down through Bellever Forest. The return journey offers more opportunities to encounter the ponies and appreciate the quiet beauty of Dartmoor. This is a walk that is as much about presence as it is about movement—taking the time to observe, to listen, to understand the intricate connections between wildlife and the land.
As I make my way back to Postbridge, I often reflect on how much of what I see exists because of the ongoing work of the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust. Their efforts ensure that these ponies continue to thrive, not just for their own survival, but for the biodiversity and cultural heritage of Dartmoor itself.
Supporting the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust
If you are inspired by what you experience on this walk, consider supporting the DPHT. Their work is essential to the future of these ponies and the landscapes they help preserve. Donations, sponsorships, and even adopting a Dartmoor pony are ways to contribute to their conservation efforts.
For those who want to see more of Dartmoor’s ponies through the lens, Wild Dartmoor will be available soon—a visual celebration of the ponies, the land they shape, and the wild beauty of Dartmoor.
Until then, lace up your boots, take the walk, and immerse yourself in a place where nature, history, and conservation come together in perfect harmony.